In Step With Nature

   

There’s a very small dot on the map in South America you might not have noticed before. And yet, it’s quite well known for its size and location. Uruguay, a rural country next to Argentina, mostly known for its successful football team, might not be a prioritised destination on your travel list. Though definitely, a hidden gem for travellers, especially if you’re fond of horses or the gaucho tradition. 

It’s 5:00 o’clock in the morning. Dawn has arrived and soon the early summer sunset will stretch its light over the Uruguayan pastures. One by one the gauchos are getting ready for a new day, greeted by the first morning bird songs. A kettle starts whistling on the wood fired stove. Victor approaches it with heavy footsteps to fill up his thermo with hot water for his morning ‘mate’ tea. Dressed in his traditional work clothing, he wears a hat similar to an American cowboy, a plain shirt, ‘bombacha’ field trousers, and leather boots, with a knife tucked into his belt. 

Clapping hooves storm the ground, as the gathered horses enter the corral. Excited, the Border Collie dogs wiggle their tail, while the riders walk towards the saddling station. Bridling the horses with a curb bit, they are saddled up the traditional way. The saddle, which is made up of multiple layers, and the seat (top layer), a soft sheep wool, makes it extra comfortable, as well as warm for cold weather. Perfectly adapted to their way of riding, giving strong support and grip for lassoing or abrupt stops or turns. 

Cheerfully the dogs jump and bark around the mounted horses, as the gauchos head out ready for work. Compared to a typical morning in a city, these workers don’t rush to their job. In their own time, accompanied by the trotting rhythm of their horses, are they approaching a cattle herd in need of treatment. Enjoying what they do, instead of working to live, they live to work.

Distant calls echo in the foggy morning, as the riders signal their dogs to gather and surround the herd, consistently but gently pushing them towards the direction of the corral. Slowly but surely, the mooing herd moves forward, crossing  creeks, gates and several pens, guided by the barking dogs that flank the sides of the herd.

Suddenly, a cow finds a gap and sprints away, escaping the dogs and the gauchos. Galloping hooves thunder the ground, crossing thick ‘chirca’ bush, as the rider starts following it with his two dogs. It’s in those moments when the gaucho and his horse become one. With years of experience, the horse can tell and sometimes even foresee what the rider is going to command. The cow jumps to the right, sprinting towards the forest, striving to reach and hide in it from the rider. But the gaucho and his horse know what the animal is planning, overtaking on the right side to stop it from running away. Circled in by the rider and the helping dogs, the cow does not see any other way than to head back to the herd. The harmonic bond between human and animal, is essentially what the life of a gaucho is all about. It’s a bond where only very few words are spoken, even among the riders. And yet, silently they all understand each other and know their part. 

Gradually the fog is lifting, as the herd approaches the corral. A clacking noise is made by the shutting gate, closed from above the horse by one of the riders. Finally, the herd is all enclosed and gathered up, ready for inspection. Generally, the cattle doesn’t like to be treated, as it involves being vaccinated, sprayed, or dipped in a smelly liquid. Especially ticks tend to be a problem in this area since they can infect cattle with fatal diseases. Patiently, with melodious calls and barking from the dogs, the gauchos convince the cattle to walk into the livestock crush, so that they can be gently treated. Time passes by, as the sun travels over the sky, unfolding its toasting heat, soon approaching midday. Quietly the horses stand saddled in the shade, waiting for their riders to finish treating the cattle and bring them back to their pen. 

 At last, the cattle are back on their pasture and it’s time for a break. Escaping the midday heat, cutlery scrapes eagerly the plates, as the gauchos enjoy their hearty lunch and a well deserved siesta before starting work in the afternoon. Usually, meat is the most important ingredient in a traditional rural meal, prepared as a roast, stew, or steak. Calmly the cicadas chirp in the background, creating a peaceful atmosphere, while the animals cool down and rest in the shade. 

The heat has settled, and it’s time to saddle the horses again and get back to work. The local breed ‘Criollo’ are of the toughest horses in the world. They have been bred to withstand long days and harsh conditions and are known for their hardiness and stamina. On top of being tough, they are noble, which makes them trustworthy and loyal. They are the heart and soul of a traditional gaucho.  

While saddling up, leather creaks as the girth is fastened to hold the layers of the seat in place. Fencing is next on the agenda and extra leather bags are attached to the saddle, to carry the tools needed. The horse carries the equipment and the rider to the broken fence, not intimidated by the sound of the wire fence roll, clicking in a trotting rhythm. 

Sitting on a pole, a bird called ‘Hornero’ (Ovenbird), sceptically eyes the worker, worried about its mud house nest, built in a tree not too far away from the fence. But the gaucho steadily keeps on fixing the fence, while listening to the rustling folklore music of his pocket-sized radio. Before the era of smartphones, these battery-operating radios were the only way to stay informed, entertained, and indirectly connected to society. Nowadays, every gaucho has a smartphone, regardless of their traditional, rural lifestyle. Hours pass by, with the horse in the background, the radio jamming music, as the rider steadily fixes the fence, while the sun starts heading towards the horizon.   

As night approaches, all nature starts to rest, including the workers. Short flashes of light emitted by fireflies twinkle in the evening, imitating the sky. Gradually the darkening landscape is tucked in by silence, with an occasional frog chirping in the background. For all gauchos, it has been a long day, just like the day before and the day to come. A day working outdoors, always in step with nature is what they live and breath, peacefully living in the moment.